THE BOOK OF PERFUMES

London: Chapman and Hall, 1865. FIRST EDITION. 206 x 142 mm. (8 1/8 x 5 5/8"). xx, 266 pp.
Very pretty publisher's royal blue cloth, stamped in gilt, upper cover with thick-rule frame, central panel with floral spray cornerpieces, central coat of arms designed by the author, smooth spine with gilt title banners and sprays of flowers, all edges gilt. With one chromolithograph, 11 full-page engravings, and 250 illustrations in the text.
Front free endpaper with ink ownership signature dated 1865. Negligible wear to corners, spine ends pushed in (as almost always), but still quite a fine copy--clean, bright, and fresh inside and out.

In an attractive and extremely well-preserved publisher's binding, this is an excellent copy of an extensive treatment of perfumes, including their history, uses around the world, materials, and modern production techniques. With the aid of copious illustrations, the author describes the use of scents in Egyptian mummification, Jewish rites, Greek and Roman cosmetics, Turkish baths, Hindu worship, and rituals of "uncivilized nations," and describes other cosmetics, hairstyles, and beauty practices across many cultures and time periods. He ends the volume with chapters on perfume manufacturing and the principal materials used in perfumery, noting that most materials grow best in warmer climates--particularly the south of France. He also describes adopting novel scents found in Australia, such as eucalyptus, which had hitherto only been used in paint. Eugène Rimmel (ca. 1820-87) was born to a French parfumier family, and, at a very young age, established his own premises in London in 1834. According to DNB, "In his laboratory Rimmel developed some of the earliest commercially manufactured beauty products," including "the first factory-made, non-toxic mascara." A talented businessman and promoter, he built a sizeable fortune by exporting his cosmetics and perfumes around the world. Rimmel cosmetics is still in operation today. Copies of this first edition are around, but they seem all to be in unpleasant condition..